Journey to the Eternal City and Our Roman Retreat

Our transition to Rome began with a picturesque drive from the sun-drenched Amalfi Coast to Naples, marking a distinct shift from serene coastal beauty to bustling urban grandeur. From Naples, a comfortable and efficient train ride delivered us directly into the heart of the Eternal City. For our five-day stay, we chose Baghirova, a hotel that, while quiet and rather basic, boasted an undeniable advantage: its phenomenal location. Situated just a three-minute walk from the awe-inspiring Pantheon, it served as an ideal launchpad for our daily explorations.

To be entirely transparent, after indulging in the luxurious charm of our Positano hotel, my expectations for accommodations were perhaps a little elevated. However, in retrospect, Baghirova provided everything we truly needed. We spent most of our days out and about, eagerly discovering the city’s myriad wonders, making a simple, well-located base perfectly sufficient. A particular highlight that quickly became a cherished ritual was the breakfast served directly in our bed each morning – a truly delightful touch that made every day’s start feel a little more special.

Upon our arrival and after swiftly checking into the hotel, our very first stop was, naturally, the Pantheon. Stepping inside, one is immediately enveloped by an overwhelming sense of history. It’s truly mind-boggling to comprehend the sheer antiquity of the entire city; the way ancient structures are seamlessly integrated into modern life is nothing short of incredible. The Pantheon, in particular, with its perfectly preserved dome and oculus, stands as a testament to Roman engineering brilliance, inviting contemplation about the centuries of life that have unfolded beneath its vast roof.

Day 1: Ancient Exploration, Italian Flavors, and European Championship Excitement

Our inaugural full day in Rome was a comprehensive exploration on foot, an exhilarating yet equally exhausting endeavor under the intense summer sun. With temperatures soaring to a scorching 95°F, the heat was a constant companion, lending an authentic, albeit challenging, element to our Roman adventure. As the midday sun reached its peak, our spirits (and energy levels) began to wane, prompting us to seek respite. We found a charming outdoor restaurant, complete with refreshing mist-fans, offering a much-needed sanctuary to cool down and savor our first truly authentic Italian meal in Rome.

I delighted in a perfectly fresh caprese salad, its vibrant colors mirroring the lively atmosphere around us. And then, there was the iced coffee. A crucial tip for fellow travelers: many Italian establishments don’t feature iced coffee prominently on their menus, so always remember to ask! The coffee itself was nothing short of divine – rich, robust, and utterly delicious. I’m not entirely sure what makes Italian coffee so uniquely exceptional, but it was precisely the invigorating boost required to recharge before we continued our architectural and historical wanderings.

As evening approached, we retreated to our hotel for a refreshing shower, eager for a unique cultural immersion: watching the European Championship Final between Portugal and France. The city was absolutely buzzing with an electrifying energy. We located a nearby Irish pub that was, to put it mildly, jam-packed. The atmosphere was incredible – a swirling mix of passionate fans, fervent cheers, and an undeniable sense of camaraderie. However, the sheer density of the crowd, combined with the lingering heat of the day, made the pub incredibly warm. It was an awesome experience to be part of such collective excitement, but we eventually opted to leave before the game concluded, prioritizing a cooler environment over staying until the final whistle of the thrilling match.

Day 2: Healthy Bites, Uncovering Roman Ruins, and Trastevere’s Evening Charm

Day two commenced with more leisurely exploration on foot, allowing us to absorb the captivating morning rhythms of Rome. For lunch, we followed a well-regarded recommendation and made our way to Ginger. While both Miguel and I are passionate lovers of pasta, we were pleasantly surprised and incredibly grateful to discover this healthy, predominantly organic lunch spot. Ginger offered a refreshing departure from traditional Italian fare, presenting an array of nourishing options alongside their pasta dishes. We opted for fresh-pressed juices to accompany our light yet incredibly flavorful meals, which included delicious rice bowls, crisp vegetables, and tender chicken meatballs – a perfect and energizing choice to fuel our afternoon adventures.

Our continued wanderings then led us to an unexpected architectural marvel: the Forum of Augustus. This magnificent site, featuring a museum at its entrance and an expansive, awe-inspiring collection of ancient Roman ruins stretching out behind it, felt like stumbling upon a true hidden gem. What made the experience even more remarkable was the relative lack of crowds; we practically had the place to ourselves, which felt like hitting the archaeological jackpot. While it turns out this site is quite close to the Colosseum and therefore known to many, the tranquility we enjoyed made our discovery profoundly personal and deeply impressive. Imagining the vibrant life that once teemed within these ancient walls was a truly moving and unforgettable experience.

As evening descended upon the city, we ventured across the Tiber River to the charming Trastevere neighborhood, celebrated for its bohemian atmosphere and bustling culinary scene. This picturesque district truly comes alive in the summer months, with countless restaurants spilling out onto the cobblestone streets, creating a vibrant, almost festival-like ambiance. We counted perhaps thirty or so establishments, each tempting passersby with enticing aromas and lively energy. Despite the overwhelming choice, we made a somewhat spontaneous decision to try a Brazilian restaurant. While the food itself, we must admit, proved to be rather average and not particularly memorable, the setting was undeniably gorgeous, offering stunning views of the Tiber River bathed in the soft glow of city lights. We still thoroughly enjoyed a few drinks, soaking in the unique and lively Trastevere atmosphere.

Day 3: Ancient Towns, Coastal Serenity, and Roman Culinary Masterpieces – My Favorite Day

Without playing favorites, I must confess that Day 3 stood out as the absolute highlight of our Roman escapade. Our adventure began with a captivating hour-long journey outside the bustling city center to Ostia Antica, the remarkably preserved ruins of an entire ancient Roman port town. Walking through what felt like a ghost town, with the intricate floor plans of houses, ancient public baths, and even a fully intact theater still visible, was an incredibly immersive experience. It was almost eerily easy to imagine the daily lives of the people who once thrived here, going about their routines centuries ago. We spent close to two hours exploring this sprawling archaeological park, marveling at its scale and profound historical significance – a true step back in time.

Given the persistent heat of the Roman summer, our next destination was a welcome and much-anticipated reprieve: a nearby beach! After countless hours of walking and immersing ourselves in historical sites, the opportunity to cool down by the sea was pure bliss. Dipping our toes in the refreshing water and relaxing on the sand provided the perfect antidote to the Roman summer sun, offering a much-needed break from our rigorous itinerary and a chance to truly unwind.

That evening, our culinary quest led us to the highly recommended Roma Sparita, a renowned establishment celebrated for its authentic Roman fare. Our mission was clear: to savor the infamous Cacio e Pepe. This classic Roman dish, seemingly simple yet incredibly rich, is crafted with Pecorino Romano cheese, generous amounts of freshly ground black pepper, and pasta water, creating an exquisitely creamy and intensely flavorful sauce. It was utterly delicious, a true highlight of our culinary journey in Rome! While at Roma Sparita, we had the pleasure of striking up a conversation with a delightful younger couple from Chicago. We spent a wonderful time exchanging stories about our respective travels, sharing tips and recommendations, which added an extra layer of warmth and camaraderie to our memorable evening.

Following dinner, we ventured to a small, unassuming bar whose name, frustratingly, now eludes me (despite a solid 20 minutes of frantic Googling!). It was a quiet, intimate spot, but the drinks were expertly crafted, the service was impeccable, and the ambiance was simply stellar. Miguel and I found ourselves wishing there was a similar hidden gem back home in Pittsburgh. Our night continued as we then made our way to Freni e Frizioni, a vibrant indoor/outdoor bar in Trastevere that apparently earned a visit from none other than Anthony Bourdain on his ‘Parts Unknown’ series – naturally, we had to check it out! True to its reputation, it offered an awesome vibe, bustling with people but never feeling overwhelmingly crowded. It was a fantastic place to enjoy tasty cocktails and soak in the lively Roman nightlife, a perfect end to a truly perfect day.

Day 4: The Vatican’s Grandeur and Monti’s Authentic Flavors

Day 4 was dedicated to our visit to Vatican City, an experience that, in its own unique way, was quite profound. To be entirely honest, my most vivid memory of the Vatican is the sheer volume of people. There were moments when the crowds were so dense that movement became nearly impossible, a sensation that even for someone not typically claustrophobic, felt a little overwhelming. Despite the challenge of navigating through the throngs, the art, architecture, and immense historical and spiritual significance were undeniably beautiful, and I am incredibly glad we made the visit. However, the combination of the intense Roman heat and the immense crowds certainly tested our endurance. We pressed on, absorbing as much as we could of this extraordinary independent city-state.

For lunch, we followed a recommendation from our new Chicago friends and headed to Duecento Gradi, a popular sandwich restaurant. Miguel absolutely raved about his sandwich, while mine was… well, acceptable. Perhaps it was my intense hunger at that point that made it disappear so quickly! By then, it was around 4 PM, so we decided to head back to our hotel for a much-needed shower and a brief rest before our evening plans.

Dinner took us to L’asino D’oro in the charming Monti neighborhood. This proved to be another culinary highlight of our trip. My meal was absolutely delicious, perfectly complemented by a wonderful glass of Italian wine. We were fortunate enough to snag an outdoor table in the shade, providing a cool and comfortable setting for our meal. We started with the sausage appetizer, and let me tell you, if you ever find yourself traveling to Rome, you absolutely must order it – it was incredibly flavorful and a true Roman delight! L’asino D’oro truly offered a memorable dining experience, blending traditional flavors with a delightful atmosphere that captured the essence of Roman hospitality.

Day 5: Colosseum Grandeur and a Surprising Taste of Home

Our final full day in Rome was purposefully dedicated to exploring the iconic Colosseum, and it was an experience I absolutely loved. While certainly bustling with visitors, its expansive outdoor nature provided ample space for people to move around, making it feel less overwhelmingly crowded than other sites. Standing before this ancient amphitheater, a monumental testament to incredible engineering and human history, we were both utterly in awe. It’s truly mind-blowing to consider the immense age of the bricks, the countless stories of gladiator battles and public spectacles that transpired within its walls, and yet how so much of it still stands remarkably intact today. The sheer scale and enduring presence of the Colosseum are truly spectacular, a powerful and humbling reminder of Rome’s enduring legacy and imperial past.

Since it was our last day in this magnificent city, I generously let Miguel choose our lunch spot. Unsurprisingly, he gravitated back to the familiar comfort of an Irish pub, driven by his craving for wings – a truly Miguel-esque decision that brought a smile to my face! Later, we enjoyed a delightful dinner at another restaurant nestled along the picturesque Tiber River, savoring our final Roman evening. For our last round of drinks, we stumbled upon a truly unexpected gem: a Pittsburgh-themed bar called La Botticella! We never would have imagined finding a slice of home in the heart of Rome, but there it was, proudly displaying tons of Steelers memorabilia and even a Point Park flag. It was a wonderfully quirky and sentimental end to our incredible Roman adventure, offering a final toast to both new discoveries and cherished memories.

Rome Culinary Highlights: Our Top Recommended Places to Eat and Drink

Our Roman holiday was a feast for the senses, and the food was undeniably a major highlight. For those planning their own trip to Rome, here’s a summarized list of our favorite culinary discoveries and highly recommended spots:

• Roma Sparita: An absolute must for authentic Italian cuisine, especially to try their famous Cacio e Pepe. We highly recommend making a reservation, particularly for dinner, as it’s a popular spot!
• Ginger: A fantastic choice if you’re seeking a healthy, organic lunch option. They offer refreshing fresh-pressed juices, delicious salads, and light, flavorful meals that provide a wonderful alternative to traditional pasta.
• Scholars Lounge: For those moments when you’re craving a taste of home or just something different than pasta—perhaps a hearty burger and the lively atmosphere of a pub—this Irish pub is a solid and reliable option.
• L’asino D’oro: Known for its classic Italian dishes, particularly its well-prepared meat-based meal options. Do not miss their incredible and highly recommended sausage appetizer!
• Freni e Frizioni: A highly recommended bar located in the vibrant Trastevere neighborhood. It’s celebrated for its tasty cocktails and boasts ample indoor and outdoor space, offering a great vibe for an evening out.

A Visual Journey Through Rome: Our Photo Diary

To further illustrate the magic and beauty of our Roman adventure, here are some captured moments from our trip: